Why SPF in your Foundation Is Not Enough
How many times have you heard (or even said yourself), “I wear SPF, it’s in my foundation.” While it’s better to wear makeup with SPF than not wearing any sunscreen at all, the SPF in most makeup products is not enough protection for your skin. Let’s dive into why!
The sunlight contains ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which is a form of electromagnetic energy. There are a variety of UV rays, but the most known are UVA and UVB. UV rays are classified according to wavelength, UVA being the longest and UVB being medium wavelength.
SPF, Sun Protection Factor, is a measure of how well a sunscreen will protect your skin from UVB rays, which protect you from sunburn, damages to the skin, and cancer.
UVA Rays
UVA rays (think A for Aging) are responsible for destruction of healthy collagen and elastin fibers. UVA rays come from the sunlight and from tanning beds. It leads to premature aging in the skin, wrinkles, age spots, and is linked to some skin cancers. UVA Radiation from the sun can also generate free radicals that damage collagen, elastin, and blood vessels. It can also result in thickening of the skin’s top layers.
UVA rays penetrate the dermis, the layer of skin below the epidermis. This deeper penetration causes indirect damages to the skin’s DNA and is 40 times deeper than UVB rays! UVA rays can even penetrate through clouds and windows, so it’s important to protect yourself from it every day. 95% of the sun’s rays are UVA, and the effect it has on the skin is immediate.
UVB Rays
UVB rays (think B for Burning), are responsible for skin reddening and sunburns. It penetrates the outermost layer of the skin, which is the epidermis. UVB plays a key role in the development of skin cancers, directly damages the skin’s DNA, and contributes to premature aging.
Overexposure to UVB rays leads to sunburns. The effects are delayed and appear a few hours after sun exposure. UVB rays don’t penetrate through windows and are more likely to be filtered by clouds. In fact, only 5% of the sun’s rays are UVB.
SPF in Makeup and Foundation
Remember when I said SPF is a measure of how well a sunscreen protects you from UVB rays? Most SPF in makeup and foundation only protect the skin from UVB rays, so while it’s protecting your skin from burning, it’s not protecting you from UVA rays (aging and damaging your skin.)
Another factor to consider is the amount of product you need to fully protect your skin. You need to apply a generous amount for SPF to be effective. As a rule of thumb, the amount of SPF you should be using on your face and neck is about 1/3 teaspoon, or the size of a slice of a banana. Unless you’re using this much foundation on your skin, you’re not using enough of it to fully protect you. In addition, it should be applied every two hours.
Okay, you don’t have to hide or pull all your shades down immediately - but you can take preventative action by applying SPF daily!
What should I look for in an SPF?
Broad-Spectrum
When selecting a sunscreen, it’s important to find a product that’s “broad spectrum,” meaning it shields from both UVA and UVB rays. That way you are fully protected not only against burning, but also aging!
SPF 20-50
It’s important to use a sunscreen that is between SPF 20-50. Recent evidence suggests that if applied correctly, SPF 15 blocks 93% of the sun’s rays, SPF 30 blocks 97%, and SPF 50 blocks 98%. So, while you think you’re being much more protected with SPF 50, it’s really only by 1%.
Water-Resistant
Finding an SPF that is water-resistant may help especially if you’re sweating, swimming, or exercising. While some sunscreens will promote “waterproof,” this is false advertisement, as SPF can only be water-resistant.
Antioxidants
Another important product in sun protection is antioxidants, which further prevent environmental skin damage and protect against free radicals. Antioxidants boost the effectiveness of SPF by stabilizing and diffusing the rays that penetrate through your sunscreen. Antioxidants are the extra defense you want to protect your skin! Examples of antioxidants are Vitamin C and E, Resveratrol, and Glutathione.
Physical or Mineral-based
Look for a sunscreen that is physical or mineral based. Physical sunscreens create a barrier on the top layer of your skin that reflects rays away from the skin. This means they sit on top of your skin rather than penetrate it. Mineral sunscreens are effective at blocking out both UVA and UVB rays. They also protect you immediately upon application.
Mineral based products are considered safe and more natural ingredients, making them more desirable for sensitive skin types, acne-prone, and children. Examples of mineral based products are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Fun Fact: Zinc Oxide is also commonly used for diaper rash. It helps moisturize and sooth irritated skin!
What should I Avoid in my Sunscreen?
Chemical products in Sunscreen: Benzene, Benzophenone, Insect Repellant, Oxybenzone, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Octisalate
Chemical products can be absorbed in the blood and have been linked to some cancers. Recent data has found that certain sunscreens, particularly sprays, contain benzene which is known to cause cancer. Another ingredient, oxybenzone, causes skin irritations and allergies, disrupts the endocrine system, and increases the risk of infertility and breast cancer.
Studies suggest that even after one sunscreen use, many of these chemicals were detected in the blood weeks after use. This is because unlike mineral based products that sit on top of your skin, chemical products penetrate the skin and need to be absorbed to work. Because they need to be absorbed to take effect, they should actually be applied 20 minutes before you go outside or in the sun. Most SPF in makeup tend to be chemical products, as it is more challenging to put physical sunscreens in cosmetics.
Not so fun fact: Many of these ingredients are unsafe and considered dangerous to our ocean’s reefs and marine wildlife. Similar to causing hormonal disruptions to humans, these chemical ingredients have the same impact on fish. They can also bleach their tissue and endanger them. While it’s important to protect yourself, protect the ocean and marine wildlife by using safe products!
Sprays and Powders
Spray and powder sunscreens should be avoided as it is possible to inhale the aerosol and powder in the lungs and cause irreversible damage. Cream-based sunscreens are best and safest to be used.
SPF with values 60+
SPF values can be an unreliable and inaccurate measure of a sunscreen’s effectiveness. When using a higher SPF, most people assume the higher the SPF the more protected they are. However, research suggests that higher SPF values have not proven to be much more effective than lower values. Thus, higher SPF values can be misleading and cause a false sense of security. When using an SPF with a higher value, it is common to stay in the sun longer and be overexposed to the sun.
In addition, higher SPF products contain a higher concentration of UV-filtering chemicals. So, for SPF 50 and above, more harmful ingredients are being used.
Choose Safer Sunscreen Products
Both UVA and UVB damage the DNA in the skin, and can lead to skin cancer, so it’s important to protect yourself against both. When choosing an SPF, it’s important to understand the label and choose one that gives you full protection!
My daily recommendation: My personal favorite sunscreen is Sheer Hydration Broad Spectrum SPF 40 (Versatile Tint). Not only does it provide full spectrum protection, but it also blurs imperfections and replaces the need to wear any makeup. I am often told that that my skin is glowing! As a substitute: AlumierMD has an untinted version, Sheer Hydration Broad Spectrum SPF 40 (Untinted) if you just want to protect your skin without the glow.
My recommendation for someone with oily skin or someone who sweats a lot: Clear Shield Broad Spectrum SPF 42
My recommendation for babies, kids or sensitive skin: Babo Botanicals Zinc Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30
Okay, you don’t have to hide or pull all your shades down immediately, but you can take preventative action by applying SPF daily. The bottom line - everyone should be using a daily sunscreen, and no, your foundation isn’t going to cut it! Sure, sunscreen is one additional step in our daily skincare routine, and it should always be the last step right before makeup. However, that extra minute will provide years of protection in the long run. Prevention is so much easier than it is to treat! Your skin will thank you later.
XO, Pure Bliss Aesthetics
https://www.healthline.com/health/skin/uva-vs-uvb#bottom-line
https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/executive-summary/
https://www.laroche-posay.us/skincare-tips-and-advice/sun-protection/uva-vs-uvb-rays-finding-the-best-sunscreen-for-you.html
